North Face of Mount Everest: The Complete Guide

The North Face of Mount Everest defines the most formidable aspect of the world’s highest peak. Rising from the Tibetan Plateau, this side reveals steep rock bands, wind-battered ridges, and vertical couloirs that shape both mountaineering history and modern exploration. Unlike the southern approach from Nepal, the north side exposes climbers to harsher winds and colder temperatures. At the same time, it offers direct road access to Base Camp and a visual panorama that no other approach provides.

Geographic Definition of the North Face:

The North Face begins at the Rongbuk Glacier system and rises steeply to the summit ridge at 8,848.86 meters. It is bounded by:

• North Col (7,020 m) – a saddle linking Everest with Changtse.

• Northeast Ridge – the prominent spine carrying the route to the summit.

• Hornbein and Norton Couloirs – steep gullies carved into the face.

• Summit Pyramid – the final snow and rock slopes above 8,600 meters.

This structure makes the North Face unique, as it combines glacial, rocky, and high-altitude alpine terrain in a single ascent line.

Key Landmarks on the North Face:

The Rongbuk Glacier:

The Rongbuk Glacier is the natural gateway to the North Face. Its western and central arms converge below the mountain, forming the route to Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

The North Col:

The North Col, at 7,020 meters, is a flat, snowy plateau where climbers establish Camp I. It connects the glacier basin to the Northeast Ridge.

The Three Steps:

• First Step (8,564 m): Broken rock, about 30 meters high.

• Second Step (8,610 m): 40-meter cliff, equipped with a ladder since 1975.

• Third Step (8,710 m): Final rock band before the summit ridge.

The Couloirs:

• Hornbein Couloir: Narrow, icy chute leading directly to the summit ridge.

• Norton Couloir: Broader gully, first reached by Edward Norton in 1924.

Standard Route on the North Face:

Climbers following the standard northeast route establish a sequence of camps:

1. Base Camp (5,150 m): Road-accessible from Tingri in Tibet.

2. Interim Camp (5,800 m): Temporary acclimatization point.

3. Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m): Main operational hub.

4. Camp I – North Col (7,020 m): Access via fixed ropes on a steep ice wall.

5. Camp II (7,500 m): On the ridge above the Col.

6. Camp III (8,300 m): Beneath the First Step.

7. Summit push: Climbers scale the Three Steps and traverse the ridge to the peak.

Environmental Conditions:

The north side experiences:

• Wind: Jet stream winds exceeding 160 km/h.

• Temperature: As low as −40°C in summit season.

• Exposure: Long hours above 8,000 meters increase risk of frostbite and altitude sickness.

• Terrain: Less snow accumulation, exposing unstable rock and ice.

Historical Ascents on the North Face:

• 1921–1924: British reconnaissance and Mallory–Irvine mystery.

• 1960: Chinese climbers claim first ascent via the Second Step.

• 1975: Ladder installation at Second Step by Chinese expedition.

• 1980: Reinhold Messner solo ascent without oxygen.

• 1963 (special): Hornbein Couloir climbed by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld.

North Face vs. South Face:

Challenges of the North Face:

• Longer exposure on summit ridge.

• Harder rock climbing on the Steps.

• Fewer rescue options due to Tibet restrictions.

• Sudden weather shifts from jet stream movement.

Distinctive Routes Beyond the Standard Path:

• Hornbein Couloir: Legendary alpine climb, rarely repeated.

• Norton Couloir: High point reached by Norton in 1924 without oxygen.

• Japanese Direct Route: Technical line pioneered in the 1980s.

Environmental Concerns:

The Rongbuk Glacier has retreated more than 100 meters in the last century. Melting ice exposes old climbing debris, including oxygen bottles and ropes. Waste management has improved with regulations, but historical pollution remains.

Two Key Lists:

Advantages of the North Face:

• Direct road access to Base Camp.

• Clear views of the summit pyramid.

• Less crowded climbing route.

• Historical significance for mountaineering.

Disadvantages of the North Face:

• Harsher winds from the jet stream.

• Longer time above 8,000 meters.

• Harder climbing on the Three Steps.

• Limited emergency evacuation options.

FAQs About North Face Of Mount Everest:

Q1. What makes the North Face harder than the South Face?
The North Face is colder, windier, and has technical rock steps above 8,500 meters. Climbers spend more time in the death zone.

Q2. Where does the North Face route begin?
It begins at the Rongbuk Glacier in Tibet, leading to Advanced Base Camp at 6,400 meters.

Q3. What is the Second Step on Everest?
The Second Step is a 40-meter cliff at 8,610 meters. It was equipped with a ladder in 1975 by Chinese climbers.

Q4. Has anyone solo climbed the North Face?
Yes, Reinhold Messner made a solo ascent in 1980 without supplemental oxygen.

Q5. Which couloir is most famous on the North Face?
The Hornbein Couloir is the most famous, first climbed in 1963 by an American team.

Q6. Is the North Face open every year for climbing?
No, Chinese authorities regulate permits. Political or health concerns sometimes close the route.

Q7. How does the Rongbuk Glacier affect climbing?
The glacier defines access to Advanced Base Camp. Its retreat alters approaches and reveals hazards.

Learn More: Sports Mirror: Comprehensive Guide to Definition, Uses, and Impact

Conclusion:

The North Face of Mount Everest remains the most dramatic and challenging side of the mountain. From the Rongbuk Glacier to the Three Steps, it combines history, danger, and beauty. Its routes shaped mountaineering legends, while its environment shows the ongoing impact of climate change. Climbers continue to face its fierce winds, sharp ridges, and legendary couloirs, making the North Face not only a route but a symbol of human endurance.